Shop Eddie Bauer: Men Women Kids Outerwear Gear Sale
Dave Hahn Earns Number 21 on Denali
Posted on August 2, 2013

IMG_5194

This spring Eddie Bauer superguide Dave Hahn reached the top of Mt. Everest for a record 15th time and 12th successful summit in a row. It’s an impressive stat but Hahn is more than just a one-mountain man. His personal summit record includes 31 summits of Mt. Vinson, more than 270 summits of Mt. Rainier and, now, a stunning 21 successful climbs out of 30 attempts on 20,320-foot Denali, the tallest peak in North America. Back safe from another successful climbing season with RMI in Alaska, Hahn shared his images and perspective with us from another successful season guiding America’s tallest peak on the way to his 21st summit of Denali. -LYA Editor

IMG_5364

Images and Captions by Dave Hahn

IMG_2970

Climbing team on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Frances provides the backdrop.

IMG_3011

RMI guide Zebulon Blaise leading a rope team to 17,000 feet on the West Buttress of Denali with Mount Foraker in the distance.

IMG_3043

Midnight view of Mount Foraker from our 17, 200-foot high camp. This was our night before the summit bid and I was up melting snow to fill water bottles. The sun was getting down into a layer of forest fire smoke, producing wild colors.

IMG_3047

The midnight sun from 17,200 feet, finding its way into the forest-fire smoke layer.

IMG_3067

The side of things that we never get to see until reaching Denali’s summit ridge. Mt.  Huntington is hiding far below in clouds between the Ruth Glacier and the Tokasitna.

IMG_3068

My rope team starting out along the summit ridge, at 20,120 feet and on the way to 20,320 feet, on July 13.

IMG_3076

Zeb Blaise approaching the summit at 6:40 PM. The point we started 17 days earlier is visible at the left center margin of the picture.

IMG_3094

Denali summit ridge with Mount Foraker in the distance.

IMG_3099

Last RMI Denali team of 2013, successful (All RMI Denali teams were successful this season, which is not unprecedented… but sure is sweet).  We spent an hour on the summit.  It was that nice.

IMG_4936

K2 Aviation “Otter” on Skis with Mount Hunter behind.  This was our starting point for the trip, just over 7200 feet on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, June 27.

IMG_5010

Neighboring team descending from 11,000-foot camp while we were on the ascent.

IMG_5030

Around 12,000 feett, going up “Squirrel Hill” on a carry to Windy Corner.

IMG_5032

12,000 feet…Team reaching the “Polo Field” with the end of the West Buttress looming overhead.

IMG_5049

Camp at 14,200 feet in Genet Basin.

IMG_5071

My team resting at 16,200 feet on the West Buttress having just completed a “carry” up the fixed rope section. We then descended to 14,200 feet to rest and wait for good weather (which took a while to come).

IMG_5084

The purple jacket. I was given a couple of EB FA prototypes to test out on Denali. I was happy to put them through their paces as they were obviously great jackets. My test instructions said, in big letters “IGNORE THE COLORS” since prototypes are built a piece or two at a time and their colors aren’t terribly relevant to the things we test. Being color-blind, I followed my instructions to the letter. My fellow Denali climbers hadn’t gotten the memo. Very little about my ensemble was ignored.

IMG_5093

Sun setting behind the West Buttress from 14 Camp.

IMG_5145

Cloud Cap and shadows on the South Peak of Denali from 14K. Messner Couloir in the center of the pic.

IMG_5224

Starting up the “Autobahn” on summit day.

IMG_5323

Zeb at Zebra Rocks, around 18,800 ft on summit day.

IMG_5257

Approaching 19,000 ft on summit day in perfect conditions.

IMG_5323

Descending from the summit… almost back to high camp at 11:30 PM. Foraker in the distance.

IMG_5341

Descent the day after topping out. 16,600-foot vantage just below Washburn’s Thumb on the West Buttress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Author: - Friday, August 2nd, 2013
TAGGED:

  1. Pete Simpson

    Fantastic photos and what a great adventure. Not something I’m ever likely to do (although I do intend to visit Alaska one day), but great to see. Thanks, Pete

  2. Lori Peck

    I live in Alaska on the Kenai Pennisula and I am always amazed at how beautiful the mountains are here,especially Denali. Beautiful pictures and congrats for making it all the way to the top guys. Not an easy climb to make.

  3. Satyarup Siddhanta

    Hi,

    We are a team of 4-5 people from India who has this burning desire to do the 7 summits… We did the Kilimanjaro and Elbrus … planning to do the Aconcagua this December. Later on Denali is in the list. How do we approach the sponsorers?
    We are feeling handicapped :( What does it take to join ur expeditions? We are just common people with uncommon dreams.
    Any direction in this matter would be of great help.


Write A Comment

Sorry, no posts matched your criteria.