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Mason Earle’s Probable First Free Ascent of Gar Wall Sends Out the Bugaboo Classics Trip—Part Five
Posted on October 25, 2014

Descending the Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire

All good climbing trips must come to an end, and that’s the case for Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker’s tour de classical force in the Bugaboos of BC’s Purcell Range. After classic big wall missions up the Beckey-Chouinard route (5.10) and Solitary Confinement (5.11), the duo topped off the trip with Mason’s probable first free ascent of the slabby section of the Gar Wal (5.13). As an encore, they navigated a high fourth-class circuit of the famous granite towers, then tackled some serious philanthropic cleanup before their departure. In final reflective summation, Mason Earle files his last report from the Bugs.

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Eddie Bauer Funds Mandatory Evacuation from the Bugaboos—Part Four
Posted on October 24, 2014


Longline with high consequences

We’ve been recapping the climbing saga of Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker’s expedition to climb towering classics in British Columbia’s Bugaboo range, but there is a less serious backstory that needed to be told. When the team arrived at East Creek camp, they found a buried outhouse that was overflowing beyond capacity. Evacuating the full pot was a problem that required philanthropic funding to pay for the long line heli time required—so Mason and Erik spearheaded an effort with Alpine Helicopters and Friends of Bugaboo Park to accomplish the mandatory evac. After a quick call to Eddie Bauer’s team, guide and grassroots philanthropy manager, Caley George, the mandatory evac was funded and underway. Unfortunately, they wouldn’t let Mason ride the long-line out of the wilderness. But this is Erik’s colorful recap.

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Mason Earle Fights the Hand of Zeus on Solitary Confinement in the Bugaboos—Part Three
Posted on October 23, 2014

Mason Earle, one hand at a time, on Solitary Confinement (5.11) in the Bugaboos

We’ve already told a few tales about Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker’s expedition to climb Bugaboo classics in Interior BC. But we asked Mason for the definitive recap of what the team accomplished mid-trip—including ascents of Solitary Confinement and a recon on the Gar Wall—before the hand of Zeus intervened. This is the second installment of Mason’s big-wall trip report from BC’s Bugaboos.

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Erik Leidecker Rocks the Bugaboos with Mason Earle—Part Two
Posted on October 22, 2014

Erik Leidecker  on the uber-classic Beckey-Chouinard (5.10), South Howser Tower

When Eddie Bauer and AMGA guide Erik Leidecker found himself in the Bugaboos with Mason Earle, Hayden Kennedy, and Andrew Burr, his first thought was along the lines of “How the hell did I get here?” But Leidecker, co-owner of Sawtooth Mountain Guides, has a lifetime of climbing and guiding credentials that earned him a ticket on this expedition with two of the rock world’s biggest rising stars—and one of its most renowned photographers—to the legendary granite spires of this impressive range. Three massive big wall routes later, Leidecker’s perspective shifted as this family man and working mountain guide held his own on a memorable climbing-trip-of-a-lifetime to the Bugs.

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Palisades Highlining Expedition Establishes Boltless High Routes in the Sierra
Posted on October 21, 2014

Wilson Cutbirth begins to de-rig the anchor point on top of the Eichorn Pinnacle in Yosemite as night approaches.

When Canon-sponsored photographer Krystle Wright offered us the opportunity to outfit her next expedition, we instantly knew the images would be spectacular. We were familiar with Wright’s stunning National Geographic-caliber shots from the Nobody’s River kayak expedition through the heart of Mongolia and Siberia, but when she used the words “highlining” and “the Palisades” in Aussie-accented combination—it sounded like a visual formula for something truly breathtaking. The photos are indeed incredible, but the story—of boltless highlines stringing together high-elevation routes in the High Sierra—is a tale that is just as powerful and arresting as the dramatic visuals.

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Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker Climb Bugaboo Classics—Part One
Posted on October 20, 2014

Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker studying the guidebook with the Minaret and South Howser Tower in the background

The granite spires of the Bugaboos in the Purcell Range of Interior BC are legendary for classic big-wall climbs in a remote and stunning location. Known as one of the greatest alpine playgrounds in all of North America, Bugaboo Provincial Park holds a long list of classic climbs with deep history in the rock world. What better way for us to celebrate Rocktober on the Live Your Adventure blog, than chronicling a modern alpine classic in the famous towering range? Eddie Bauer climbers Mason Earle and Erik Leidecker heli-dropped into the Bugs this fall to see what they could climb during a perfect high-alpine window, and this is Mason’s first of three reports from the trip.

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Lynsey Dyer Talks Power and Resonance at the Pretty Faces Seattle Premiere
Posted on October 17, 2014

Lynsey Dyer, freeskier, filmmaker and creative force

Last night, Lynsey Dyer’s Pretty Faces premiered to a sold-out Seattle crowd at the Mountaineers clubhouse at their hometown headquarters. It was a monumental event, charged with a 500-strong representation of female skier energy and featuring a touching moment-of-scream tribute to the late Liz Daley, a friend of SheJumps and Dyer’s teammate, who died tragically in an avalanche in Patagonia in September. But even in the midst of heartbreak, the positive energy that is Pretty Faces keeps rolling along on a sold-out streak of shows attended by fathers with daughters, girls who rip, and women empowered by the underlying message inherent in the on-screen story of a skier girl.

The short story is that Pretty Faces is a great ski film, incorporating everything from stories of ski-town employment to the pioneering women of freeskiing, and, giving voice to women who have been overlooked in the bro-dominated world of ski film for far too long. It tackles so many facets of ski life from a woman’s perspective, but connects on deeper, personal levels and never gets bogged down. The segments and lines are impressive and the Alaska footage is not only sick but also laced with the underlying emotion of skiing lines of a lifetime. It follows a story arc woven together expertly with skill, heart, and emotion by Dyer and her crew of Unicorn Picnic Productions. The message of on-hill empowerment is strong and has resonated universally with audiences at every screening so far. We sat down with Dyer before the big night to get her response to the on-tour experience. This is what freeskiing’s rising filmmaker had to say.

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